Jongno is Seoul's oldest district, and its back streets are organised the old way: entire alleys built around one dish. Here's where to go for what.
Agwijjim Alley
Alley after alley of restaurants serving agwijjim — spicy braised angler fish piled on bean sprouts. Order it "medium" spice unless you know what you're in for. Nearby is Nagwon Tteokjib, a rice cake shop running for 90 years, said to have once supplied Korea's presidential residence, the Blue House.
Kalguksu alleys
Look for small, no-frills places doing kalguksu — hand-cut knife noodles in broth, often with seafood, served in large portions. Not fancy, and better for it.
Gul Bossam Alley
Near Jongno 3-ga and the old Seoul Cinema: bossam (boiled pork, sliced, wrapped in vegetables) with a side of raw or seasoned oysters in winter.
Dongdaemun's grilled fish alley
Inside Dongdaemun Market, a run of stalls grilling whole fish — mackerel, cero, and mackerel pike — over open flame.
Gopchang Alley
Near Dongdaemun Gate: cheap, no-nonsense gopchang (grilled beef or pork tripe), eaten wrapped in perilla leaf with a sweet-spicy dipping sauce.
Dakhanmari
A Jongno specialty in its own right: a whole chicken boiled in broth at your table with rice cakes, potato, and noodles added as it cooks — built to share.
Gwangjang Market
Jongno's best-known food market, and worth the crowds: mayak gimbap (bite-sized seaweed rice rolls), bindaetteok (mung bean pancake), sundae (Korean blood sausage), tteokbokki, yukhoe (Korean beef tartare), and janchi guksu (warm noodle soup) are all sold from stalls inside.
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