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Food & Drink

Eating in Korea: how restaurants actually work

How to order, what the free side dishes are, what to eat first, the drinking rules, and what to do if you don't eat meat.

Korean restaurants work differently from Western ones in a few small ways that nobody explains, and which make the first couple of meals more stressful than they need to be. None of it is complicated once you know.

Most places do one thing

A Korean restaurant is usually a specialist. It does barbecue, or knife-cut noodles, or fried chicken, or blood sausage soup — not a menu of all four. A place with eight unrelated dishes on the wall is either a tourist restaurant or a 분식 (bunsik) snack bar, which is the one legitimate exception.

This is good news. It means the sign outside tells you what you're eating, and it means whatever you order is the thing they've cooked ten thousand times.

How a meal actually works

Sit down first. In most places you seat yourself. Nobody will come to greet you at the door.

Call the server. They will not come and check on you. There's usually a button on the table — press it. If there isn't, say "저기요" (jeogiyo) across the room, at normal volume. This feels rude to most visitors and is completely normal here. Waiting quietly for attention means waiting all evening.

Banchan arrive free. The little dishes — kimchi, pickled radish, seasoned greens, a fried egg — come with the meal and aren't on the bill. They're refillable at no charge: hold up an empty dish, or ask. Taking a refill is expected; leaving them untouched is a small waste that gets noticed.

Water and cutlery are self-serve. Water is in a dispenser or a jug on the table. Spoons and chopsticks are usually in a drawer under the table edge — a surprising number of people never find it.

Pay at the counter on the way out, not at the table. Asking for the bill to be brought over will just confuse everybody.

Six things to order first

  • Bibimbap (비빔밥) — rice, vegetables, egg and chilli paste. Mix it thoroughly. Almost always available, hard to dislike.
  • Kimchi jjigae (김치찌개) — sour kimchi stew with pork and tofu. The everyday Korean lunch.
  • Samgyeopsal (삼겹살) — pork belly you grill at your own table. A social meal rather than a solo one.
  • Kalguksu (칼국수) — hand-cut noodles in broth. Gentle, cheap, good on a cold day.
  • Bulgogi (불고기) — sweet marinated beef. The safest thing on any menu if you're travelling with someone nervous.
  • Dakgalbi (닭갈비) — chicken stir-fried on a hot plate with cabbage and rice cake. Chuncheon's dish, now everywhere.

Expect roughly ₩8,000–12,000 for a simple one-person meal, more for grilled meat, which is priced per portion and usually needs two orders minimum.

The drinking part

If you end up drinking with Koreans, three rules cover almost everything:

  • Never pour your own. Pour for others, and someone will fill yours. Keep an eye on neighbouring glasses.
  • Two hands. Pour with two hands, and receive with two hands, when the other person is older or senior to you.
  • Turn away to drink when drinking with someone notably older — head turned slightly aside from the table.

Nobody expects a visitor to get this right, and the fact that you tried will be noticed warmly.

Eating alone

Solo dining (혼밥, honbap) is now completely normal, especially in cities and at lunch. But some things genuinely aren't built for one: barbecue, jjimdak, dakgalbi and most stews are often priced and portioned for two, and a few places will say so. Noodle shops, gimbap places, bunsik bars and gukbap restaurants are all comfortable solo.

If you don't eat meat

Be realistic: Korea is hard for strict vegetarians and very hard for vegans. The problem isn't the visible meat, it's the anchovy and beef stock underneath almost everything, and the fish sauce in most kimchi. Even a plain-looking vegetable side dish usually has one or the other.

What works: temple food restaurants (사찰음식), which are genuinely vegan by doctrine; Buddhist-run places; and increasingly good vegan restaurants in Seoul's Itaewon, Hongdae and Yeonnam-dong. The phrase to learn is "고기 없이 주세요" (gogi eopsi juseyo) — without meat — but treat it as a request, not a guarantee.

Small things worth knowing

  • Tipping is not expected anywhere. Not in restaurants, not in taxis, not in bars. Leaving money can cause genuine confusion.
  • Many places close between lunch and dinner, roughly 15:00–17:00. Turning up at four in a small town means finding a convenience store.
  • Cash still matters in markets and older restaurants, though card acceptance is near-universal otherwise.
  • Shoes off where there's a raised floor and low tables. There'll be a shelf.
  • Spice is real. "Not too spicy" in Korean often still is. If you want it mild, order something that isn't red.
  • No shared serving spoons. Everyone eats from the communal stew with their own spoon. This is normal; don't ask for a separate bowl.

Three phrases that do most of the work

  • 저기요 (jeogiyo) — excuse me, to call a server
  • 이거 주세요 (igeo juseyo) — this one please, while pointing at the menu or a neighbouring table
  • 계산이요 (gyesanhiyo) — I'd like to pay, said at the counter

Pointing at what someone else is eating and saying igeo juseyo is a completely legitimate ordering strategy, and one of the great pleasures of eating your way around Korea.

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Common questions

Are side dishes free in Korean restaurants?
Yes. Banchan — the small dishes of kimchi, pickles and seasoned vegetables — come with the meal at no charge, and refills are free. Hold up an empty dish or ask.
How do you call a waiter in Korea?
Press the button on the table, or call out 저기요 (jeogiyo) across the room. Staff will not come and check on you unprompted, and calling out is completely normal rather than rude.
Can you eat alone in Korea?
Yes, and it is increasingly common. Noodle shops, gimbap places and gukbap restaurants are all comfortable solo. Barbecue, jjimdak and most stews are portioned for two or more, and some places will say so.
Is Korea hard for vegetarians?
Harder than it looks. The difficulty is not visible meat but anchovy and beef stock in broths and fish sauce in most kimchi. Temple food restaurants are genuinely vegan, and Seoul has good vegan options in Itaewon, Hongdae and Yeonnam-dong.
Do you pay at the table in Korean restaurants?
Usually not. You pay at the counter on the way out. Asking for the bill to be brought to the table will generally confuse people.

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