Ulleungdo rises steeply out of the East Sea, a volcanic island so cut off from the mainland that it can only be reached by a multi-hour ferry crossing.
History
The island's earliest historical record dates to 512 AD, when the Silla general Kim Isabu conquered Usan-guk, the small kingdom then ruling Ulleungdo and, by extension, the nearby Dokdo islets. Goryeo later took control, and Joseon-dynasty authorities periodically tried to keep the island uninhabited, partly to guard against pirate raids — a policy they abandoned in 1881, after which Korea encouraged resettlement.
The island is the exposed peak of a volcano rising from the seafloor, with almost no flat land except Nari Basin, a collapsed caldera beneath its highest point, Seonginbong (984 meters). Ulleungdo is administratively grouped with the disputed Dokdo islets, roughly 87 kilometers further out to sea.
Highlights
- Nari Basin, the island's only flat plain, a collapsed volcanic caldera beneath Seonginbong, with traditional houses, wildflower fields, and hiking trails.
- Haengnam Coastal Walk, a cliffside path along rocky shoreline with caves and sea views.
- Bongnae Falls, the island's only significant waterfall.
- Seonginbong Peak (984m), the island's highest point, reachable by several hiking routes.
- Dokdo, the disputed islets further out to sea, visitable on a weather-dependent day tour, with a Dokdo museum on Ulleungdo itself.
- The coastal circular road, a scenic drive around the island's edge with cliffside lookout points.
Food
Squid (ojingeo) is the island's defining ingredient — dried, grilled, or stir-fried as ojingeo-bulgogi. Also look for honghap-bap (mussel rice), noodle soup made with barnacles, and bibimbap made with wild greens from Nari Basin.
Getting there
Ulleungdo is reachable only by ferry, from three mainland ports: Pohang, Mukho (Donghae), and Gangneung. From Seoul, take the KTX to Pohang (about 2.5 hours from Seoul Station) or a bus/train to Gangneung, then board a ferry — the crossing takes roughly 3 hours depending on the route and vessel. Sailings are weather-dependent and can be delayed or canceled in rough seas, so it's worth building a buffer day into the itinerary.
How long
Because the ferry alone eats up half a day each way, Ulleungdo is worth at least two or three nights to justify the trip and see Nari Basin, the coastal walk, and, weather permitting, Dokdo.