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Jeolla

Gangjin강진

A quiet bayside county known as Korea's historic center of Goryeo celadon production and as scholar Jeong Yak-yong's long place of exile.

Population

About 32,000.

Fun fact

Excavated pieces of Gangjin's Goryeo celadon are prized enough to be held in museums as far away as the Louvre in Paris.

Gangjin on the map

Gangjin sits on a long inlet in South Jeolla, ringed by tea fields and the excavated kilns that made it Korea's celadon capital for four centuries.

History

From roughly the 9th to the 14th centuries, Daegu-myeon in Gangjin was the country's primary center for Goryeo celadon production; around 200 of Korea's roughly 500 known historic kiln sites are found here, close to half the national total, and the core site was designated Historic Site No. 68 in 1963. Gangjin was also home in exile to Jeong Yak-yong, the Joseon philosopher known as Dasan, who was banished here in 1801 during a crackdown on Catholicism. He spent 18 years in the area, 10 of them at the thatched house now known as Dasan Chodang, writing hundreds of works on statecraft, law, and reform that became foundational to Korea's Silhak (Practical Learning) movement.

Highlights

  • Goryeo Celadon Museum, opened in 1997 on the Gangjin Kiln Sites, with more than 30,000 excavated celadon pieces and fragments from 188 kilns; some Gangjin celadon pieces are held in museums as far away as the Louvre.
  • Dasan Chodang, the house where Jeong Yak-yong lived out much of his exile, with the nearby Cheonilgak pavilion overlooking Gangjin Bay and the adjoining Dasan Museum.
  • Baengnyeonsa Temple, near Dasan Chodang, historically tied to Jeong Yak-yong's friendship with the tea-growing monk Hyejang.
  • Wolchulsan National Park, shared with neighboring Yeongam, its granite peaks rising above tea fields planted on the lower slopes.
  • Gangjinman Bay Ecological Park, tidal wetlands that draw migratory birds.

Food

Green tea grown on Wolchulsan's slopes is a local staple, along with grilled eel, seasoned pork bulgogi, and fresh manila clam salad — all among the county's listed local specialties.

Annual events

  • Gangjin Celadon Festival (July–August) — held at the Goryeo Celadon Museum, with kiln firings, celadon-making classes, sales, and exhibitions of historic pieces; it's been recognized by Korea's Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism as one of the country's best festivals.

Getting there

Buses leave Seoul's Central City Terminal six times a day between 7:30am and 5:40pm, taking about 4 hours 50 minutes.

How long

A day trip covers the celadon museum and Dasan Chodang, but an overnight leaves room to add Wolchulsan or the tea fields without rushing.

More: Official Gangjin tourism guide.